The One That Hasn't Changed in 700 Years

Note: Since we are waiting for our stuff to be delivered from Denver to Charlotte, I haven’t had my scanner in order to scan pictures from the guidebooks on the Windsor Castle state rooms and the inside of St. George’s Chapel. Since I’m tired of waiting, I’m going to go ahead and post about the last couple of places we visited and then come back to Windsor later. There is the trip to Paris to get to after all…

Our last full day started with a drive down to Salisbury, a picturesque medieval town set in the rolling countryside a couple of hours southwest of London and its centerpiece is the cathedral. Salisbury Cathedral is rather unique amongst in English counterparts in that it was built within one century with no substantial later additions. Once again we took advantage of the town’s park and ride and were dropped off within a few blocks of the cathedral.

In 1075, the Archbishop of Canterbury decided that the cathedral for the local diocese should be located in Sarisburia – “Old Sarum”, an ancient hill fort one mile north of the current city center. On this site, the outlines of this early cathedral as well as the castle can still be seen. The cathedral was built and consecrated in 1092. But the area had difficulty getting water and there was no room for growth which led many to move to more desirable land down by the river. By the end of the 12th century, plans were being made to build a new cathedral on land the church already owned along the water.

The foundation was laid in 1220 and a new city laid out around the cathedral close. By 1258, the quire, transepts and nave were completed and the ornate west front a mere seven years later. The result is a cathedral built entirely in the Early English Gothic style. Only three things have been added since it was completed: the tower and spire; some supporting arches and a small chantry church.

The tower and spire were added between 1297 and 1320. At 6500 tons, the added weight caused the central crossing pillars to bend so buttresses were built for support. In 1450, additional supporting arches were built and are one of two examples of the Perpendicular architectural style in the interior.  The tower is 224 feet high and the octagonal spire adds an additional 180 feet. Both were extensively restored between 1986 and 1996 and the last 30 feet of the spire was rebuilt around 1950.

The quire is the primary place for prayer and worship and as such is a “church within a church”. Much of the woodwork (on the left side of the above picture) in the back two rows of stalls is original from the 13th century while the canopies above the stalls date from the early 20th century.  The total length of the interior is 449 feet.

ceiling of the quire

An organ has existed in the cathedral since at least 1480. The current organ dates from 1876 and has 4,000 pipes. Most cathedrals have a long tradition of choral singing and Salisbury takes theirs very seriously. In 1091, a school was founded for the boys of the choir and Salisbury was the first cathedral to recognize and give girls the same opportunity, founding a girls choir in 1991. The singers are expected to maintain the highest musical standards, learn to play two instruments as well as ordinary school work and therefore, many are boarders.  I'm not sure how I managed to not get a picture of the organ.

The Trinity Chapel was the first part of the cathedral built and was completed in 1225. The large window is dedicated to prisoners of conscience – men and women who have suffered for their beliefs and was created in the late 20th century. Beside the window is a candle surrounded by barbed wire, the symbol of Amnesty International. The medieval shrine of Bishop Osmund was destroyed by Henry VIII during the Reformation.

(as in most cathedrals, Salisbury is full of beautiful stained glass)

The Chapter House dates from the mid 13th century and is one of twelve surviving octagonal shaped chapter house buildings and is very similar to one at Westminster Abbey. It’s walls contain a number of medieval friezes depicting scenes from Genesis and Exodus.  Salisbury has the honor of housing one of the four (and reputedly the one in the best condition) surviving copies of the Magna Carta. Elias of Dereham was a Canon of Salisbury and present at Runnymede, responsible for distributing many of the original copies.  Unfortunately, since the Magna Carta is displayed in the Chapter House, no pictures were allowed.

The Cloisters were completed in 1266 and at 190 feet square with 18 foot wide walls are the largest in England. Due to continued deterioration, a restoration project is currently underway.  The space is also used as a small cafe.

One of the more unusual features in the cathedral was a fountain.  I probably wouldn't have believed it if someone had told me about it, but there it was, right in the middle of the nave

The history nut in me was excited about a couple of the tombs.  The first is that of William Longespee, half brother to King John and Earl of Salisbury.  He was present when the cornerstone was laid in 1220 and was the first person to be buried in the cathedral in 1226.

This is the other side of Longespee - love the lions on the shield!

The other is that of Edward Seymour, Earl of Hertford and his wife, Lady Katherine Grey.  Katherine was a niece of Henry VIII and younger sister of Lady Jane Grey, who was Queen of England for nine days following the death of Edward VI in 1553.  They married without the consent of then queen, Elizabeth I, and were both imprisoned in the Tower of London.  Thanks to the visits allowed by the Lieutenant of the Tower, they managed to have two children.  The tomb was built in 1675 and is quite ornate.  Due to a large sign type thing in the aisle in front of the tomb, it was impossible to get a picture of the entire thing in one shot.

This is the top of the tomb

The Alter of St. Margaret of Scotland (wife of Malcolm III; cannonized in 1250).  The front piece dates from the 17th century and is believed to be from Spain or perhaps Italy and is considered one of the treasures of the cathedral.

close up of some of the statutes on the front of the cathedral

another view of the fountain and the nave

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Cheers!

*all information from the guidebook and signs inside the cathedral